Clear Eyes: Rain-X Headlight Restoration Kit

6 February, 2020

 


 

Mention the name Rain-X and you’ll instantly think water repellent, but the company actually offers a wide range of car care products, including its Headlight Restoration Kit, an easy all-in-one DIY kit that anyone can use at home, with no need for any extra tools. The sun’s UV rays have a lot to answer for when it comes to cars — they give our coatings a seriously hard time. When it comes to headlights, the sun breaks down the protective clear coating on the acrylic plastic, leaving it open to the elements, and over time this oxidizes, causing a foggy appearance.  

These unsightly headlights not only look absolutely rubbish with that fresh paint job or fresh restoration — if you let it get bad enough it can become a WOF and compliance issue, due to the reduced headlight performance. Replacements are costly and often impossible to find if you have a popular drift chassis. But all is not lost, as an easy DIY restoration using Rain-X Headlight Restoration Kit can yield long-lasting, crystal-clear results.  

The Rain-X Headlight Restoration Kit comes complete with three polishing pads, 59ml Rain-X Lubricant, 148ml Rain-X Headlight Restorer, 59ml Sealant, and a microfibre cloth.

Step 1: 
Ensure the headlight is clean and free of dirt and road grime before beginning the process. We also like to apply some masking tape around the headlight as a way of protecting the paint if you get a little loose with the sanding pads. But this is not necessary and more a precautionary measure.

Step 2: 
Spray the entire headlight and polishing pad #1 with Rain-X Lubricant. Sand the headlight surface in a uniform diagonal motion until you achieve an even finish. Work in one diagonal direction before switching and working in the opposite forming a cross hatch. At this stage you’ll want to remove all the yellowing from the plastic, creating a uniform surface. Once you’re happy, wipe dry with a clean cloth or paper towel.

Step 3:

Apply another coat of Spray Rain-X Lubricant to the headlight and this time use medium grit Polishing Pad #2. Working in a linear (horizontal and vertical) motion, sand the headlight with a firm pressure, working the entire surface in one direction and then switching to the other. Rain-X recommend repeating this twice. Once you have achieved a uniform surface, wipe clean. 

Step 4: 
Apply a third coat of Spray Rain-X Lubricant to the headlight and this time, use the fine grit polishing pad #3. Return now to a diagonal sanding motion. By doing this it ensures you’re not left with any sanding marks. If you were to complete all three sanding steps in one direction, you would struggle to create a uniform surface free of scratches. Step four is complete once you have achieved a smooth-to-the-touch surface. Wipe clean and allow it to dry. 

Step 5: 
At this stage, the headlight will still have a haze. Now it’s time to polish. Apply a small amount of the Headlight Restorer to the provided microfibre, and, working in a circular motion, polish the plastic until all the haze has gone. You will likely have to apply more product as you go. Once the headlight is completely polished, ensure all the product has been removed from the headlight surface. 

Step 6: 
The last step is to seal the headlight using the Rain-X Sealant. Apply the sealer to a clean, dry cloth and apply an even film. Job done! 

“Gotcha!’’ The continuing tale of a Nissan/Datsun tragic – part two

In 1996, I was on a mission to buy a suitable pavement scorcher and visited the now-defunct Manukau City Car Fair. Unbelievably, among the sea of four-door utilitarian Japanese compacts was the absolute jewel in the crown, my automobile wet dream — a 1985 two-door R30 RS Nissan Skyline FJ20 Turbo five-speed manual in nice condition. The owner wanted $10,000 — a great deal.
But what did I do? I bailed out, paralysed by indecision. The money would have been a stretch, but it was the worst automotive choice I ever made. Instead, I went for a rusty Toyota Sprinter 8 Valve Twin Cam Coupé, which was pretty terminal from the get-go. I know. We’ve all done it, but there was really no excuse for passing up the Skyline, and I was haunted by that for years.

Last Tango in the Fast Lane

In the mid ’80s, I locked into a serious Nissan/Datsun performance obsession. It could have kicked off with my ’82 Datsun Sunny, though this would have been a bit of a stretch of the imagination, given its normally aspirated 1.2-litre motor — not the sort of thing to unleash radical road warrior dreams. But it did plant a seed, and it was a sweet little machine and surprisingly quick, in contrast to all the diabolical English offerings I had endured.
I was living in South Auckland at the time and was an unrepentant petrolhead. Motor racing was my drug of choice, and I followed the scene slavishly. Saloon car racing, with the arrival of the international Group A formula, was having a serious renaissance here and in Australia and Europe. There was suddenly an exotic air in local racing that had been absent for 15 years.
I was transfixed by this new frontier of motor racing that had hit our tracks in 1985–87 and the new array of machinery on display. In 1986, the Nissan Skyline RS DR30 made a blinding impression on me. The Australian Fred Gibson-run, Peter Jackson-sponsored team of George Fury and Glenn Seton were the fastest crew of the 1986 Australian Touring Car Championship. But Kiwi legend Robbie Francevic snuck through to win the Aussie Championship in his Volvo 240T after a strong start and consistent finishes.